http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ Support Forum - KBS Coatings » Forum: KBS Gas Tank Sealer Kits - Recent Posts en Sun, 01 Aug 2010 08:13:03 +0000 http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2045#post-2877 Wed, 26 May 2010 13:29:38 +0000 KBS Coatings 2877@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Sounds Great! Please let us know if you have any additional questions. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2045#post-2875 Wed, 26 May 2010 11:56:38 +0000 cb26la 2875@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>O.k. thanks for your help. The bubbles are solid, I look forward to getting the truck running. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2045#post-2874 Tue, 25 May 2010 10:27:04 +0000 KBS Coatings 2874@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>I am honestly not able to visualize a flat cylinder, so I have no idea. But, maybe someone else does and will chime in. Or maybe you could speak with a local mechanic and they could let you know what that is?.. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2045#post-2873 Tue, 25 May 2010 10:21:04 +0000 cb26la 2873@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>I was actually wondering what it was. I'm guessing it was for the fuel return, but I couldn't feel any holes for the fuel to make it back into the tank. However I cant see it so I really don't have a clue what it's for. So I guess my question was if anyone knew what that could be? </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2045#post-2872 Tue, 25 May 2010 08:12:00 +0000 KBS Coatings 2872@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>As long as the bubbles are hard and solid, you should be fine. Maybe try poking them with a coat hanger to see how hard and solid they are.</p> <p>I do not see why the dealer could have damaged your flat cylinder type device. Why do you think it may have damaged it? </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2045#post-2870 Mon, 24 May 2010 23:20:32 +0000 cb26la 2870@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Hi, I recently used your auto tank 3 part sealer kit and followed the instructions very closely. However it is always humid here so maybe that is the reason I have 4 small very hard bubbles on the bottom. My question is will that cause any problems down the line because I really don't have time to wait to reseal the tank. </p> <p> There is also a small flat cylinder type device which the metal tubing goes to, I'm guessing it's the fuel return but I'm not a mechanic. My question for that is could the sealer have damaged it? I cannot feel any openings on it so all I did was sand the rust off it, cleaned it with the first 2 parts of the kit. Then covered it with duct tape while I sealed.</p> <p> Thanks in advance </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2040#post-2864 Fri, 14 May 2010 09:38:32 +0000 KBS Coatings 2864@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>We do not have a thicker and heavier coating.</p> <p>We recommend patching the exterior of the tank first and then using the System to Seal the inside of the Tank.</p> <p>Patching:<br /> Use KBS BackBone Reinforcing Mesh for exterior repair of pinholes or weld seams. Prior to patching, prep the outside and inside of the tank by using AquaKlean and RustBlast and allow all surfaces to dry completely. Begin by sealing the inside of the tank as outlined above. After sealing, immediately use any remaining Sealer to paint a thin layer on the exterior pinhole area(s). Using a suitably sized piece of BackBone Mesh, embed it directly into the wet Sealer and apply another thin coat of Sealer painting outward from the center. Let cure.</p> <p>For exterior patching of holes that are larger than pinholes, use KBS NuMetal Epoxy Putty. Clean &amp; prep the inside and outside of the tank using AquaKlean &amp; RustBlast as stated above. Let dry. Scuff up area to be patched with 320 grit sandpaper then follow NuMetal application instructions. (NOTE: Allow NuMetal to cure for 12 hours before proceeding with sealing the inside of the tank.) After sealing &amp; draining the inside of the tank, immediately use any remaining Sealer to paint a thin coating on the exterior patched area for reinforced coverage.</p> <p>You can find complete instructions for the Gold Standard Gas Tank Sealer here: <a href="http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Gold-Standard-Tank-Sealer-Information-Instructions_ep_39-1.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Gold-Standard-Tank-Sealer-Information-Instructions_ep_39-1.html</a></p> <p>You can also find the Fix-It Guide which will help you quickly identify the causes of and the recommended solutions for the most common issues that could occur with Tank Sealer here: <a href="http://www.kbs-coatings.com/fix-it-guide-tank-sealer.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.kbs-coatings.com/fix-it-guide-tank-sealer.html</a></p> <p>You can also find Instructional Videos here: <a href="http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Videos_ep_90-1.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Videos_ep_90-1.html</a></p> <p>You can also find Tank Sealer Flow Charts here: <a href="http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Flow-Chart--Tank-Sealer_ep_88-1.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Flow-Chart--Tank-Sealer_ep_88-1.html</a> </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2040#post-2862 Fri, 14 May 2010 06:40:38 +0000 Schoobytwo 2862@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>I've used the tank sealing process on snowmobile tanks mostly with success. However, I do get some tanks that have more pin holes than others which have not completely sealed. I've seen other sealed tanks with liners that look thick and heavy. Does KBS offer a thicker tank sealer than the standard liquid offered? These tanks are rectangle and easy to rotate and drain, so I am not worried about puddling. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2027#post-2836 Fri, 02 Apr 2010 15:53:06 +0000 rv 2836@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Well here is my final take on the Kreem saga.</p> <p>After numerous washes with acetone and MEK, I resorted to using electrolysis to remove the majority of the remaining Kreem. Two days of monitoring and several swishes later, I would say that 85% of the Kreem was removed, the last remaining will be there for perpetuity or at least till it decides to peel off.</p> <p>I decided then after washing all of the electrolysis solution out of the tank to use your Rust Blast on the flash rust and iron phosphate remaining in the tank (figured I payed for it, might as well use it). This restored the tank to a nice shade of silver on the inside and that's where I decided I'd done enough. </p> <p>I caught all of the remaining Rust Blast and saved it (just in case) and sloshed around some acetone after the final rinses and called it good. I'll keep the tank topped off and just keep an eye on it for rust. I don't have confidence that the lining will take seeing that I was never able to completely remove the Kreem from the tank in the first place. It's easier for me to deal with the rust versus stripping out another failed liner.</p> <p>Here is what I would suggest to someone taking on the same debacle:</p> <p>-If you can thin out the strip, it should work better. Since you're inside the tank, it isn't as necessary for it to cling and I feel it would work better a bit thinner in consistency. If you have a power washer handy to blast the inside, this would help as well.</p> <p>-I would use MEK over Acetone and shake the hell out of the tank with screws inside to loosen as much of the remaining Kreem as you can. Acetone is a bit easier to work with however and can be evaporated out faster.</p> <p>-By using electrolysis, you should be able to loosen the remaining kreem (because it will have rust stuck to the backside of it) and neutralize the rust inside.</p> <p>Once you've crossed that bridge, you can then go forward with the three-step process if you feel.</p> <p>Total time not including KBC products: one week.</p> <p>Hope this helps someone out.</p> <p>-Randy </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2027#post-2833 Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:55:15 +0000 rv 2833@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Jim, on another note: all MEK and Acetone will do is soften the Kreem. I tested a piece that pulled off and soaked some in both solutions. All it managed to do was to soften it, not dissolve it as previously thought. As soon as you take it out, it shrivels up and dries out as the chemicals evaporate.</p> <p>It amazes me how tough the stuff is yet how it made such a mess of my tank. I'm on day 4 of this Kreem removal debacle that has included:</p> <p>-Strip<br /> -1 Gallon of Acetone<br /> -1 Pint of Mek<br /> -Numerous rinses of water<br /> -A tankful of bits of bicycle chain and drywall screws agitated and shaken every couple of hours in both solutions.</p> <p>The stuff is coming out but is not completely leaving the tank, there are random patches of it clinging on here and there. I'm afraid to proceed with your coating if I can't get it all out and may just use the Rustblast and forgo the tank sealer for fear of it failing again. I really don't want to repeat the entire process again as well as outlay the money, I've spent $60 on chemicals so far, not including your kit.</p> <p>If I were to do it all again, I'd have the tank completely stripped at a metal shop/radiator shop to ensure everything is out. The paint has seen some damage due to all the chemicals (no matter how careful I was) and only adds to the frustration. </p> <p>I think that a complete strip is the only way to ensure ALL of the Kreem would be removed (of course EVERYTHING would be removed). The people that were able to get it all out using simialr techniques are either much luckier, more patient or just flat out lying because the stuff I'm finding is just that difficult to remove. I hate the person that owned my bike before me for it.</p> <p>-Randy </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2027#post-2831 Sun, 28 Mar 2010 18:25:36 +0000 KBS Coatings 2831@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Randy,</p> <p>Thank you so much for your suggestions. We will certainly take those into consideration and implement them as necessary. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2027#post-2826 Fri, 26 Mar 2010 13:42:20 +0000 rv 2826@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Thanks Jim,</p> <p>I've got a gallon of acetone soaking in the tank now and have been sloshing it around with some bits of bike chain as an aggregate. Hopefully through the weekend it'll make progress.</p> <p>I'd recommend that you guys note this in your "Plus" instructions as well. I was hoping that the Strip would be enough but it's proving not. I think another gallon of acetone will be going through the tank before the actual reseal process even begins.</p> <p>I know I already have 8 hours into removing the failed Kreem and several more ahead of me before I can be done.</p> <p>-Randy </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2027#post-2822 Fri, 26 Mar 2010 09:24:27 +0000 KBS Jim 2822@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Randy,</p> <p>It's best to get it all out, as if you seal over it and it breaks free, the new sealer will come up with it. Kreem dissolves when soaked in MEK or Acetone, so if you need you can use that to complete the stripping. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/2027#post-2821 Thu, 25 Mar 2010 20:51:13 +0000 rv 2821@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Hello,</p> <p>I just spent the better part of the day using your strip to remove a failing Kreem liner in my tank. After several applications and rinses, I was able to get the majority of it out but some still remains. </p> <p>It also doesn't help that the tank is oddly shaped and makes it difficult getting every nook and cranny.</p> <p>My question is: does the Kreem have to be completely removed or just the majority of it?</p> <p>Thanks much for any help.</p> <p>-Randy </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2748 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 09:26:30 +0000 KBS Coatings 2748@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Sounds like a great plan. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2747 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:11:55 +0000 bob393 2747@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>I'll try the wire brush.<br /> I ordered fresh chemicals so I'll start over again.<br /> Scrub, Clean, and Etch.<br /> I don't want to do this twice! </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2746 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 09:52:35 +0000 KBS Coatings 2746@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Yes. Go ahead and hit it with the wire brush. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2745 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 20:52:45 +0000 bob393 2745@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>I'm still not happy with the two spots. I gave it a 24 hr soak and scrubbed it every couple hours with a parts brush and it still doesn't look clean to me. Perhaps a wire brush? </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2744 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:13:28 +0000 bob393 2744@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>How clean does the rustblast need to be? I pored it out in a kind of dirty bucket,<br /> a bit of oil residue on the bottom. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2743 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:58:32 +0000 KBS Coatings 2743@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Yes. It would be best to re-etch the surface with RustBlast. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2742 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 10:28:03 +0000 bob393 2742@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Will the aqua clean remove the zinc coating from the blaster? Will I need to re-etch the entire tank or just the two spot that I scrub to remove the wax? </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2741 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:40:37 +0000 KBS Jim 2741@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>I worry that the sealer would not adhere properly to those areas. I would recommend some more cleaner &amp; etch, and a strong solution 1:1 of the cleaner with hot water and a GOOD long soaking of that area. Any manual scrubbing of the area would definitely help. Then rinse and etch as normal before sealing. That flux can indeed be tough to remove. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2740 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:39:12 +0000 KBS Coatings 2740@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>The RustBlast should still work. The AquaKlean should still work as well as long as it is not too dirty. Yes, you will want to scrub it with a parts cleaning brush. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2739 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:35:06 +0000 bob393 2739@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Do you think the used product will still work or should I get some fresh cleaner and etcher?<br /> Would scrubbing it with a parts cleaning brush, not an easy task, help? </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2738 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:18:53 +0000 KBS Coatings 2738@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Yes. You will want to get that out so that the Gold Standard Tank Sealer can adhere properly and give you the long lasting protection that you desire. </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2737 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:48:20 +0000 bob393 2737@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Just some of the old stuff I drained out.<br /> Do you think that still has some cleaning properties and<br /> do you think it needs to be removed for the tank sealer to stick? </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2736 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:02:17 +0000 KBS Jim 2736@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>It sounds just like you've described with the flux. Do you have any more AquaKlean left? Can you reach those areas with a brush of some kind? </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1997#post-2734 Mon, 09 Nov 2009 15:59:17 +0000 bob393 2734@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Hi: just got the motorcycle tank kit and followed the directions to the letter. My question is: when I look into the tank I see 2 bad rust spots that don't seem to dry. They appear waxy almost. The rest of the interior of the tank looks super, almost galvanized! I should note that I soldered the bad rust holes from the outside of the tank before I proceed with the cleaning. I supose it is possible that the waxy spots I see are residual flux from the soldering process. I dried the interior of the tank wit forced air cool and heated for about 6 hours and I assure you it is dry. How should I proceed with the spots. I'm ready to seal the tank but don't want a coating failure at this point in the project. Help </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1993#post-2725 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 08:46:45 +0000 KBS Coatings 2725@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>Yes. That would be fine. And you can also use the RustBlast again.</p> <p>I grabbed this section from our directions for you:</p> <p>Important: Do not allow RustBlast to dry on surface. This avoids too heavy of a zinc phosphate buildup which can adversely affect the sealing process. After sufficient wet contact, drain &amp; capture RustBlast in a bucket/container. Repeat process as needed. Once thoroughly etched, drain and rinse tank thoroughly several times with water. (NOTE: It is not necessary to remove every last bit of rust before sealing. Gold Standard Tank Sealer is very capable of bonding to &amp; permanently sealing any remaining rust or corrosion.)</p> <p>You can find the complete instructions here: <a href="http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Gold-Standard-Tank-Sealer-Information-Instructions_ep_39-1.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Gold-Standard-Tank-Sealer-Information-Instructions_ep_39-1.html</a> </p> http://support.kbs-coatings.com/topic/1993#post-2721 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:59:45 +0000 beetle 2721@http://support.kbs-coatings.com/ <p>I will get some more RustBlast and repeat.</p> <p>The instructions with the kit say do not leave the RustBlast in the tank for than 1 hour. Given the heavy deposits, would it be safe to leave it for longer than 1 hour? </p>