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  • Posted by 2 years ago. There are 3 posts. The latest reply is from Emgineer.

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  1. Here is an issue I'm certain you and many of your customers have encountered; any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    I have several antiques with fuel tanks, the most problemmatic would be my '56 Lincoln Premier with its 22 gallon tank. The other two tanks are small (<6 gallon capacity each), and gravity drain via 1/8" bottom-mounted FPT ports. However, the Lincoln tank has a welded-in drain tube connected to an internal strainer. The strainer screen is positioned just above the floor of the tank, and is completely inaccessable by hand (through the fuel sender port hole). So, the salient issue is, how does one strip and coat the tank interior without also completely coating the strainer screen, rendering the tank essentially useless?

    One option, but not a good option, is to precisely locate the 3-D location of the strainer, cut a circular hole in the tank bottom, cover the entire strainer, apply a tempory hole patch, clean and coat the tank interior, remove the patch and strainer cover, and finally, replace the cutout core and seal with epoxy.

    Another option is to somehow access and coat the screen face (after the cleaning step is completed) with a release agent, then coat as usual. The issue with option #2 is, again, how to assure access, and a further issue is how not to get any release agent on the tank's interior.

    I have to believe that you've encountered this problem before. Have you any suggestions, or proven resolutions?

    Thanks.
  2. I believe I've spoken with you before about this...or it may just seem that way. In a situation like this, we've found it best to prep & seal the tank as normal, then while the sealer is still liquid, spray some compressed air into the tube with the screen to clear it. Use the canned compressed air such as for computer cleaning as it will not be quite as forceful to disturb the rest of the tank interior.

    Let me know if this idea makes sense for your particular tank construction.
  3. Thanks for the suggestion; I believe this will work quite well. I'll assume that since the coating is fairly viscous and sets up relatively quickly, a continuous blast of air isn't needed, but a shot or two during the curing process is the way to go.

    No, I hadn't posed this issue to you before, but I did pose it to your competitors, both of whom told me not to purchase and use their products!

    I will gladly comply with their advice. And yours.

    Thanks you.

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