Hi,
I am trying to treat a rust problem in the rear cargo area of my Mazda van.
The rust affects about 10% of the floor area.
I had the whole floor plastic bead blasted which got rid of all remaining paint, the bulk of the rust and enlarged the few holes that I discovered. There are dozens of small pinholes and a few holes 50mm in diameter or smaller.
The blasting guy told me to paint the whole floor with rust converter, let it cure (2 days) then power wire wheel the whole floor which I did.
I am taking the van to a panel shop next to get the holes welded closed/patched (no filler will be used).
I read your directions and I think I need to use Rustblast then Rustseal Galvanised steel with maybe a little Numetal putty for smoothing the patched areas.
Is this all I need to do?
About this topic
- Posted by twum_au 5 months ago. There are 4 posts. The latest reply is from KBS Coatings.
- 1 Members Subscribed To Topic
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Yes. It sounds like you have the idea of what you want to do. Etch the metal with the RustBlast. Apply two coats of RustSeal. Do your patching or smoothing with the NuMetal Epoxy Putty. Then you can apply another coat of RustSeal over the NuMetal Epoxy Putty.
You can find complete instructions for RustSeal here: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal-Information-and-Instructions_ep_38-1.html
You can also find the Fix-It Guide which will help you quickly identify the causes of and the recommended solutions for the most common issues that could occur with RustSeal here: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/fix-it-guide-rustseal.html
You can also find Instructional Videos here: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Videos_ep_90-1.html
You can also find a Flow Chart for using the KBS 3 Step System here: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Flow-Chart--RustSeal-on-Steel_ep_87-1.html
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UPDATE
I just got the van back from the panel shop where all holes have been welded closed.
90% of the floor was not rusted so it mostly has a dull grey appearance, its "clean" but not shiny. I think maybe the factory etching survived the bead blasting and the power wire treatment too???. I sanded a small patch to see how hard it is to sand back to shiny metal and its really tough. To sand this whole (ribbed) floor bright and shiny (if thats necessary) would be VERY difficult. The Rustblast was intended to stabilise the rust AND etch the bare steel but it seems to me maybe I can leave the existing etch alone as the Rustseal ought to stick to it so long as its clean???? -
That sounds correct, but you will want to do a test area first.
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